A Memoir from Punta Mita 2018

By Michael Allen

The breeze was warm, tropical warm and moist against the skin. It blew from the East across Punta de Mita. Small waves slapped against the shoreline as the sun gently rose in the distance. Local birds made their morning call as the smell of the ocean drifted through the air. Clouds moved slowly as if time itself had slowed down. The pace is never rushed, never hurried, more relaxed, and somehow all still gets done. We grab our boards and walk across the beach mixed with pebbles and large grains of sand. it is 7:30 in the morning here and the sun is just now appearing from behind the hills. Our boat approaches and pulls straight into the beach, something you can only do at the higher tide. We load the boards one by one. I myself also have my medical bag and a dry bag full of other items I know I will need to have with me. I have on my quick dry surf trunks, hat, long sleeve rash guard, reef booties, and sun block on all exposed areas on my body. The coral is sharp and there are spiny sea urchins here. Foot protection is highly advised. 


We pull closer to El Faro and see the waves, long right lines breaking across the coral reef. We swing wide around the point and head to Bahia where there is an inside spot that breaks both left and right, and a point break that is a perfectly placed right over shallow reef. Our boat anchors, I throw my board over, jump in and start paddling towards the point. No one is there and the swells hit the reef producing a bending, wedging peak that makes for a nice drop, and a long right line if you can maneuver through the bending reef. It is a great wave and I feel comfortable out there. I have my water-proof camera in the pocket in my surf trunks and have tied a neti-pot bottle to it to use as a floater. Without it, the camera would sink to the bottom. You have to be resourceful and creative when you surf away from home. We surfed nearly 3 hours on this day and finally paddled back to the boat. We arrive back on shore, unload the boards, and pay our boat driver. He is knowledgeable, trustworthy, good to be around, and knows these waters as I know my own home breaks. I shower off and jump into the little heated pool to warm back up and let my muscles relax. We all compare notes about the morning surf session and know that today will be talked about for years to come.




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